Got old cards? Start here

Updated 11 October 2026

Step 1: find out exactly what you have

• Look at the bottom right for the card number (like 2/110) and the set symbol, then find it on our English sets or Japanese sets pages, where every card is pictured.
• Check for the 1st Edition stamp and, on Base Set, the shadow beside the picture (see Base Set prints).
• Check it is genuine: Spot a fake and the back of the card.

Step 2: an asking price is not a sale

You will see posts like "this card sold for a fortune". Very often that is an asking price: anyone can list a card for any amount. What matters is what copies actually sold for, and in which grade. A card listed for six figures can have real sales at a small fraction of that. Always look at completed sales, and check the grade matches.

Step 3: how likely is a perfect 10?

The big numbers are almost always for a PSA 10. Very few old cards get one: they were handled, shuffled and stored in shoeboxes. Here are real PSA counts:

PSA population counts via Pikawiz, October 2026. People send their best copies, so the real odds for a card from a binder are probably lower still. Most old holos come back as an 8 or 9, or lower.

Step 4: check it yourself first

1. Light: tilt the card under a bright lamp and look for scratches, dents and print lines on the front, especially on shiny holos.
2. Corners: sharp, or slightly round and fuzzy?
3. Edges: white specks along the edges, front and back ("whitening").
4. Centring: are the borders roughly even on all sides?
5. Back: the back is graded too, so check it as closely as the front.

If you spot any scratch, crease or whitening, a 10 is very unlikely. That is fine: plenty of people grade cards just to protect them and prove they are real.

Should I restore or clean my card?

No. Pressing out dents, removing scratches, polishing, or cleaning with sprays or solvents all count as altering the card. PSA and CGC both say so in their grading standards. An altered card comes back marked "Authentic" or "Authentic Altered" with no number grade, and you still pay the grading fee. The only safe step is a gentle wipe with a clean, dry microfibre cloth to remove dust and fingerprints. Nothing wet, nothing pressed.

How to get cards graded from the UK

• Go direct with a grading company (PSA, CGC, Beckett or TAG) by setting up an account on its website and posting your cards.
• Or use a UK submission service that sends cards to the grader for you. Names UK collectors mention most often include The Sub Center, Collectable Power, Ark Grading, Trust Grading and Black Label Grading. We are not connected to any of them and are not paid to mention them: check reviews and current terms yourself.
• Ask for a condition check first. A good service will tell you honestly whether a card is worth grading before you pay.
• Expect to wait. Grading can take several months, and fees depend on the card and the service level, so check current fees.
• Or take it to a card show. Experienced dealers will usually give an opinion for free. See our events page.

Meanwhile, keep it safe

Put each good card in a soft sleeve and then a rigid "toploader", and store them flat, somewhere dry and out of sunlight. Never use rubber bands, and never write on the sleeve with the card inside.

Education only, never financial advice. We never tell anyone what a card is worth or what to buy.